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  • 5 min read

43. Sunset Post

Sunset : Colors are magnificent while I am watching the west. It is sunset for me, but it a new dawn rises in Europe, it feels good and peaceful.

San Diego is definitely worth a detour! With my bike Salida, I chose to stay in the Ocean Beach area. Beachfront: the beach is mere 50 meters away! The atmosphere is relaxed, alternative, even hippie, with definite surfing vibes. I meet some really cool people, and I feel the need to talk about my adventure. I also get my fill of sensations without being too adventurous in my activities. After 40 days in the wilderness, it's easy to feel overwhelmed in a big city. My body starts to reflect its fatigue. A beautiful kind of blues, really: I'm ready to head back home!

  • 3 min read

42. Antelope Wells: the final stretch 💪. Really?

Stylish pose! But still proud ☺️!

It’s finally the day for the last push. I leave at dawn to avoid the wind and stick to my schedule. The asphalt turns into gravel, the wind is manageable, and I make good progress. Emotions rise as I realize it’s the end. So much effort, joy, sacrifice, and moments of truth. Yes—I’ve hit my limits more than once during this adventure, but I was never alone.

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41. Hachita

The desert 🌵

We leave Lake Roberts as a trio for one last climb, still just as great. It's strange to see the end approaching on the GPS, the last climbs can be counted on one hand. We leave the mountains, forests, and Gila Park for good. I continue alone, pass through Silver City (which is pretty nice, by the way), and start my marathon. 188 km under a scorching sun. The wind is tough at times but manageable. I drink a lot. I stop in Hachita at nightfall and run into a group of Swiss who left in late June. There are 70 km left 💪.

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40. Camaraderie

Beautiful Ride!

It was hard to leave Beaverhead. Dinner, breakfast, and burritos to go were all offered to us. Sarah insists that this place is probably the closest to the American way. We set off through Gila National Forest, an endless series of climbs and descents on rough gravel in the heat. This last challenge is spicy 🌶️.

  • 3 min read

39. Beaverhead Ranch

Trophy Room

Today’s route takes us through the plains of San Agustin. The day is beautiful, with little elevation gain, and Sarah and I are making good progress. But the Swiss from Grisons overtakes us, and we catch up with him 155 km later at Beaverhead Ranch. He used to be part of Nino Schurter's team, which explains a bit 😁. The ranch hosts hunters, and there’s a trophy room that makes you think 🤔. Otherwise, the welcome was impeccable. Tomorrow, we're aiming for Silver City as a group of three. It’s also nice to ride with others.

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38. Pie Town and Toaster House

Pie-o-Neer

The route takes me into the badlands of Malpais Park. The terrain is very volcanic. I get a lot of cactus thorns in my tires, which are starting to show the miles. It's nice to overtake a group of French people, a Swiss from Grisons, and to run into Sarah again, whom I’ve crossed paths with before. Everyone ends up in Pie Town, at the Toaster House...

  • 2 min read

37. Grants

Bivouac at Cerro Alesna

I finish the crossing of Mesa Chivato and Chaco Mesa. After the beautiful peak of Cerro Alesna, I have one more climb in the San Mateo Mountains before arriving in Grants. The historic Route 66 runs alongside the town. My legs have taken a beating. After some shopping, I set off again to bivouac on the way to Pie Town. It’s been a day of transition.

  • 3 min read

36. Deserticus

A peak that accompanied me throughout the first part of today’s route

I leave Cuba betting that it won’t rain. I set off in the late morning to make sure everything is dry. The route is beautifully wild. Sand, rocks, 🌵, and no one around. Just one difficulty: not enough water, which I only find at the end of the day. I set up my bivouac in preparation for the climb that will take me to Grants tomorrow.

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35. Abiquiu to Cuba

Departing for Cuba

Finally, the weather seems to be holding up, and I set off on the route to Cuba. It’s a big stage (125 km and 2,400 m of elevation gain), and I take off around 6:30 a.m.—a record for me. The climb is known to be the hardest (in terms of terrain and length) on the GDMBR. It’s a fantastic route, and I'm happy I didn’t take the detour on the road like others. At the end of the climb, I raise my arms to the sky 💪.

  • 3 min read

34. Abiquiu Lodge

Terrasse du Lodge Abiquiu Inn

Je repars du Hopewell Lake Campground et découvre les couleurs de New Mexico mais aussi le contraste avec le Colorado. Je passe El Rito et m'arrête à Abiquiu après un tronçon pavé et vent arrière sympa. Je prévois une fin d'après-midi reposant car demain sera un gros morceau. Je retrouve K.K et sa femme Gomathi, le vélo c'est aussi une communauté.

  • 3 min read

33. Land of Enchantment - Really?

New Mexico is also called the Land of Enchantment. It’s even noted on the plates!

I am in the Land of Enchantment, my last American state before the border 💪. It’s getting tough—I quickly taste the unique relief of the Tusa Mountains. I escape the rain, but not the terrain my route traverses. I get bogged down and waste a lot of time trying to get past the peanut butter muck. Adventure and challenge are here!

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32. Altus Maximus

Indiana Pass: 3,637 m 💪✌️👍 the highest pass on the GDMBR route

I tackle the Indiana Pass, which tops the Divide passes. It’s a long climb, but the weather is nice. After that, it plunges down to follow a beautiful river. Views of the colorful mountain slopes (rich in iron). I take a break in Platoro. Then onto Manga Pass: bivouacking on the border, I sleep in New Mexico!

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31. Del Norte - The Wild Colorado

Finally a fun route!

I fold up my tent ⛺️ still damp from the night rains, to the sound of coyotes. One pass to get over in the morning gray, then a long descent. Toward Garita. I continue toward Del Norte, and the sun finally appears. The rocks become colorful as I cross the Rio Grande. After a few errands, I set up camp during the climb to Indiana Pass.

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30. Cow-Girl encounter

Cow-Girl

I leave Salida in the late afternoon. The bike is operational again. I sleep not far away, then tackle two passes over 3,000 m. I encounter my first Cow-Girl! It rains every afternoon, but the weather is improving.

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29. Salida and a Bit of Rest

Abby's Breakfast

A magical moment with this beautiful "breakfast," let’s call it a meal. I set off because I want to reach Salida. Today my son Loïc turns 12! I want to have a signal to talk to him and spend some time in town. Not counting on the wind and the difficulty of the terrain. Upon arriving in Salida, I’ve surpassed 3,000 km since Calgary. I’m at the same latitude as Lisbon 💪.

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28. Boreas Pass 3,500 m

Boreas Pass

I leave Steve, who woke up happy with my tent in his garden. I tackle Ute Pass, then Silverthorne, Frisco, and Breckenridge, three ski resorts connected by a bike path. I cross Boreas Pass at 3,500 m, finishing in Hartsel, as close as possible to Salida (= rest). 150 km, 1,800 m elevation gain, 10 hours in the saddle!

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27. Colorado Has Relief!

Evening light after the rain

I leave the bivouac but lose time tinkering with the bike. Finally, I tackle the climbs. Almost the entire day on gravel. Mountain-type landscape, sometimes resembling the Jura. The rocks have beautiful colors. I eventually stop to enter private land with a sign 😉.

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26. Leaving Brush Mountain Lodge

Brush Mountain Ranch

After stuffing myself with pancakes, I say goodbye to the lodge and tackle the first climb. I will need to push the bike. I pass through Steamboat Springs (a ski resort) and bivouac after 135 km. I’m getting ready for some elevation gain!

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25. Hello Colorado!

Rock Formation

After a stormy night, I hit the road again. Today I leave Wyoming to enter Colorado. I stop at Brush Mountain Lodge, an accommodation really made for Dividers. Along the way, I encounter vegetation again 👍.

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24. Things Go Wrong in Rawlins

Heading to Colorado

I’ve never felt so comfortable in my bed. But I need to move on, so I start looking at the map. Then I want to adjust my derailleur, but after 30 minutes, the cable snaps. I need to repair it to get back on the road.

  • 4 min read

23. The Great Basin #2

Traversing the Great Basin, 2nd day, I can still smile

In the morning, after a short night, I see cyclists stopping at the spring. I was only 100 m away 😆. I set off at 10 a.m.; I have 180 km left to reach the town of Rawlins. Will I make it there today?

  • 3 min read

22. The Great Basin

Traversing the Great Basin, evening lights

I take advantage of the morning to do some shopping and give my bike some mechanical care. I want to cross the Basin in 2 days while riding at night. 180 km to reach the first spring.

  • 2 min read

21. Pinendale

Warmly dressed 🥶!

After a freezing night, it’s beautiful upon waking. I defrost the bike and also dry the tent and clothes that suffered a bit from the rain in recent days. I then set off toward Pinendale. Today, I crossed the 2,000 km mark since my departure from Geneva on July 25 💪. So happy!

  • 4 min read

19. Welcome to Wyoming

Grand Teton

I leave Warm River under heavy rain. I’ve pulled out all the stops for my clothing. It rains all morning (50 km and 900 m of elevation gain). I reach the summit with a bit of sunshine. I continue on to Grand Teton Park, then follow Buffalo Fork to end up at a... dream bivouac.

  • 3 min read

18. Old Oregon Short Line

Rail Tunnel

I ride along the Red Rock Lakes Wildlife Refuge, battling a headwind all day. I enter the state of Idaho! Then I finish on an old railroad track that used to bring tourists to Yellowstone Park. I end up at the Warm River Campground with a great welcome.

  • 3 min read

17. Today is a Good Day

Shadow Play

There was a storm during the night, but it’s beautiful upon waking. I set off, and for once, there’s no long exhausting climb. I can finally stretch my legs (130 km, 1,000 m of elevation gain). My legs are holding up, and the weather is fantastic. I am about to leave Montana for a brief passage through Idaho and then into Wyoming.

  • 3 min read

16. Storms

It's time to test the rain gear

A restless night due to the storm; I dry my tent and set off. I stop at Ma Barnes, a little gem. After a good stretch on the road, it’s time for endless gravel. I’m making good progress; there aren’t any major climbs. I pitch my tent just before the hail starts falling. Phew!

  • 3 min read

15. Fleecer Ridge

Fleecer Ridge 15%

This time I tackle Fleecer Ridge. It’s crazy (especially the descent). I arrive at Wise River to follow a beautiful river, this time on the road (my backside appreciates it). Camping at Elkhorn Spring. A hot spring nearby. It’s tempting because it’s cold at 2,300 m. But I prefer to rest.

  • 3 min read

14. It's been 2 Weeks

We cross paths among Dividers! Beautiful descent

I leave Butte after doing my shopping for 3 days and having breakfast. I still see mining activity. I ride for a good while, then it’s off to single track in Thompson Park. I start the climb to Fleecer Ridge, but my legs won’t cooperate. I choose to postpone the tough part to tomorrow.

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13. Lava Mountain and Butte

Butte

I leave my lake in the fog to tackle Lava Mountain. It’s a tough stretch, so I stop in Basin to regain my strength. I continue on to Butte, arriving as night falls. I book a room—I need a bath and a good night's sleep!

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12. Helena and Park Lake

Park Lake just for me!

I hit the road again and quickly find my rhythm. The rest has done me good. I arrive in Helena, stop by the bike shop for a little maintenance, and then head out, arriving at a beautiful wild lake, just for me 🤩, at the end of the day. The weather is unpredictable. 100 km and 2,000 m of elevation gain.

  • 4 min read

11. The 1,000 km mark

Alpaca Farm

Rest day. Sunny and super peaceful. A time for exchanges and sharing with other cyclists. The hospitality is fantastic, and the place is magical. My odometer shows 1,046 km since Calgary: I’ve crossed the thousand mark 💪! I try to project the challenges and options ahead of me. Bike maintenance ✅. And most importantly, recovery 😌 before hitting the road towards Helena. In the end, there’s still a long way to go to leave Montana...

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10. The Alpaca Farm

What a beautiful roof! 🚴

I leave at 9:03 AM ☺️ and aim for the Lama Ranch—a must-stop on the Divide. I plan to spend a rest day there. To get there, I have to detour around the fire via the highway. Then there’s one last big climb just after Lincoln, on gravel, of course.

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9. Overcoming 2075mD+

Single Trail!

I continue my journey, still on gravel and without passing through any towns. I aim for Seeley by the lake. There’s a big elevation gain: I pass over 2,000 meters of climbing (Elevation+). I’m in such a hurry to arrive that I miss the exit and end up back in a wild campsite. A family of rabbits welcomes me—there's another tent with a Canadian. My biggest day with 8 hours and 15 minutes in the saddle.

  • 3 min read

8. Camping at Swan!

Swan River Camp

I'm making good progress, but the road is still closed due to the fire between Ovanda and Lincoln. Montana is one of the challenging passages of the Great Divide. I have a lot of elevation to gain in the coming days. I’m trying to manage well!

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7. A week already!

Red Meadow Lake - such a beautiful green!

Today I stepped on the gas. 130 km / 1,700 m of elevation gain with 2 passes to cross. Not a cloud in sight, I rode non-stop on gravel (hard on the backside) to secure the last spot at the Whitefish campground.

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6. The 49th Parallel

Bicycle Shop

And here I am, I've crossed the border. The landscape has changed significantly. Ranches everywhere. The first town, Eureka, is quite nice. And especially an exceptional campground for cyclists. I managed to ride 130 km with 1,000 m of elevation gain. It's great.

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5. The Titan

Voici Titan

The rear tire is deflating, so I aim for Fernie where there are bike mechanics. In Sparwood, I come across Titan. A photo is a must. Then I head to Fernie, pumping air every few kilometers. A nice evening with John and John, a father and son riding together on the Divide.

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4. The King

Sa Majesté

Barely set off, and I have the big encounter of the day: my first Grizzly. It's a stunning moment, I tell you, after that, pedaling is a breeze (adrenaline + joy). But the rest of the day is also beautiful, and especially it rolls smoothly, allowing me to finally increase my average speed.

  • 3 min read

3. The Day of the Grand Depart

Banff official start

It is happening for real: it's MY Grand Depart. Ideal course for gravel, breathtaking landscapes. Camping by Spray Lake Reservoir, there are just 2 cyclists. It's great, but now we need to move forward! I discover solitude in front of the vast spaces.

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2. Arrival in Banff

Another Nature

This time I will arrive in Banff! But with serious gravel (hike-a-bike style) to avoid the highway and the wind, then a top bike path. Good reception upon arrival, luck for camping.

  • 4 min read

1. Not Showing Off on the First Day

Western Style

Due to forest fires in Jasper, I decided to bike to Banff. But the acclimatization period is tricky. 30 km/h headwind all day long... To reach the first parks and discover Canadian camping.

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Day 0 - Take-off

Jasper in flames, Icelands Parkway closed

Buckle-up! It's getting serious. Biggest learning of the day: don't plan too much ahead, let the way guide you as well.

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J-1 : packing day

Packing Day

Wow I have been preparing for so long, yet this last day is so strange. Getting all my rig together, sort-off. Tomorrow onwards I will be on my own.

Check-out the traditional rig pics in the preparation section. What are my (planned) essentials? What will be my proven and confirmed picks? And flops?

Also interestingly, it's not only about individual items but also about figuring a system to make it all work simply together.

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J-6 : goodbye kids

Wow it is getting really close now to departure and still so much to do. It was difficult saying good bye to the kids for 7 weeks (they left for the Côte d'Azur with my parents in law last sunday). Will miss you both!